SA Longdistance Truckers South Africa

15/10/2026

15/10/2026

09/10/2026

“So where do you see fuel in 5 years?

11 February 2015 VS now 2026”

09/10/2026

🚨 𝗦𝗢 𝗡𝗢𝗪 𝗧𝗛𝗘 𝗥𝗔𝗙 𝗪𝗔𝗡𝗧𝗦 𝗔𝗡𝗢𝗧𝗛𝗘𝗥 𝗣𝗜𝗘𝗖𝗘 𝗢𝗙 𝗬𝗢𝗨𝗥 𝗣𝗢𝗖𝗞𝗘𝗧? 🚨

South African motorists are already feeling the pressure at the fuel pump.

Now the way the 𝗥𝗼𝗮𝗱 𝗔𝗰𝗰𝗶𝗱𝗲𝗻𝘁 𝗙𝘂𝗻𝗱 is funded is back under review — and motorists could once again be the ones expected to carry the cost.

The RAF currently receives 𝗥𝟮.𝟮𝟱 𝗽𝗲𝗿 𝗹𝗶𝘁𝗿𝗲 through the fuel levy.

But the RAF has proposed that the levy could rise to 𝗮𝘀 𝗺𝘂𝗰𝗵 𝗮𝘀 𝗥𝟯.𝟬𝟬 𝗽𝗲𝗿 𝗹𝗶𝘁𝗿𝗲.

At the same time, government is investigating alternative funding models — including a possible contribution linked to your 𝗮𝗻𝗻𝘂𝗮𝗹 𝘃𝗲𝗵𝗶𝗰𝗹𝗲 𝗹𝗶𝗰𝗲𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝗿𝗲𝗻𝗲𝘄𝗮𝗹.

So motorists have a very reasonable question:

𝗔𝗥𝗘 𝗪𝗘 𝗚𝗢𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗧𝗢 𝗣𝗔𝗬 𝗔𝗧 𝗧𝗛𝗘 𝗣𝗨𝗠𝗣... 𝗔𝗡𝗗 𝗣𝗔𝗬 𝗔𝗚𝗔𝗜𝗡 𝗪𝗛𝗘𝗡 𝗪𝗘 𝗥𝗘𝗡𝗘𝗪 𝗢𝗨𝗥 𝗟𝗜𝗖𝗘𝗡𝗖𝗘?

To be clear: 𝗻𝗼 𝗻𝗲𝘄 𝗺𝗼𝘁𝗼𝗿𝗶𝘀𝘁 𝗳𝗲𝗲 𝗵𝗮𝘀 𝗯𝗲𝗲𝗻 𝗳𝗶𝗻𝗔𝗟𝗜𝗦𝗘𝗗.

But the discussion matters.

Because when fuel costs rise, everything connected to transport feels it — getting to work, getting children to school, delivering goods and putting food on the table.

𝗦𝗢𝗨𝗧𝗛 𝗔𝗙𝗥𝗜𝗖𝗔𝗡 𝗠𝗢𝗧𝗢𝗥𝗜𝗦𝗧𝗦 𝗗𝗘𝗦𝗘𝗥𝗩𝗘 𝗧𝗢 𝗞𝗡𝗢𝗪:

👉 What exactly are we paying for?

👉 How will the RAF be made financially sustainable?

👉 Will motorists be expected to pay through fuel, licence renewals, insurance — or some combination of all three?

👉 And most importantly… where is the accountability for the money already being collected?

The RAF is facing serious financial pressure. Parliament’s Transport Portfolio Committee was told this week that the fund is paying out around 𝗥𝟮𝟱 𝗯𝗶𝗹𝗹𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗮 𝗺𝗼𝗻𝘁𝗵 while receiving around 𝗥𝟰 𝗯𝗶𝗹𝗹𝗶𝗼𝗻 into its coffers. ([Parliament of South Africa][2])

𝗪𝗘 𝗔𝗥𝗘 𝗡𝗢𝗧 𝗦𝗔𝗬𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗗𝗢𝗡'𝗧 𝗙𝗨𝗡𝗗 𝗧𝗛𝗘 𝗥𝗔𝗙.

We are saying:

𝗙𝗜𝗫 𝗧𝗛𝗘 𝗦𝗬𝗦𝗧𝗘𝗠.
𝗗𝗘𝗠𝗔𝗡𝗗 𝗔𝗖𝗖𝗢𝗨𝗡𝗧𝗔𝗕𝗜𝗟𝗜𝗧𝗬.
𝗕𝗘 𝗧𝗥𝗔𝗡𝗦𝗣𝗔𝗥𝗘𝗡𝗧 𝗪𝗜𝗧𝗛 𝗠𝗢𝗧𝗢𝗥𝗜𝗦𝗧𝗦.

Because ordinary South Africans cannot be expected to simply keep opening their wallets every time the system runs into trouble.

🚗💨 𝗧𝗛𝗜𝗦 𝗜𝗦𝗡'𝗧 𝗝𝗨𝗦𝗧 𝗔𝗕𝗢𝗨𝗧 𝗔 𝗖𝗔𝗥.

𝗜𝗧'𝗦 𝗔𝗕𝗢𝗨𝗧 𝗪𝗛𝗔𝗧 𝗜𝗧 𝗖𝗢𝗦𝗧𝗦 𝗧𝗢 𝗕𝗘 𝗔 𝗠𝗢𝗧𝗢𝗥𝗜𝗦𝗧 𝗜𝗡 𝗦𝗢𝗨𝗧𝗛 𝗔𝗙𝗥𝗜𝗖𝗔.

09/10/2026

Home-made long-handle flat scraper for scraping sticky product out of tipper bins after offloading, this tool stops driver from shaking the truck violently to remove product sticking in the bins after offloading:

This is what works - a home-made long-handle flat scraper, like in the photo above. Don't let drivers use short spades or bare hands under a tipped bin.

Drivers should park on level ground, tip the bin halfway first, then stand to the side (never under the tailgate) and pull the material down. This tool stops drivers from having to shake the truck violently.

▪︎How to make it for your product (example: sticky Magnetite or Chrome fines):
- Handle: 1.8m - 2.2m long, 25mm or 32mm steel pipe. Long enough to stand on the ground next to the wheels and reach the middle of the bin. Wrap the top end with insulation tape / old conveyor belt for grip.
- Blade: Flat plate 300mm wide x 150-200mm high, 4-5mm thick. Weld it at about 30-45 degrees like a hoe, not 90 degrees. Grind the front edge sharp-ish so it cuts the cake.
- Optional: Weld a small triangle gusset behind the blade so it doesn't bend when scraping that heavy material.

▪︎Here is a workshop drawing you can send to your boilermaker. Build 5-6 units and keep them at the offloading site.

Cost is almost zero from scrap bin. To drivers: never go inside or under the bin to clean, stand on the side on the ground and pull.

▪︎To build:
- Handle: Ø32mm pipe x 2000mm long
- Blade: 300mm (W) x 200mm (H) x 5mm flat steel
- Angle: 45° to handle - this is what makes it scrape, not push
- Gusset: 2 x small triangular plates behind, stops bending on your heavy material

09/10/2026

⚠️ SAFETY ALERT - N2 Piet Retief to Ermelo

> At approximately 02:00, a rear trailer of a side-tipper interlink was found overturned and blocking the N2 between Piet Retief and Ermelo.

> A truck driver who stopped at the scene was recording the obstruction and flashing his lights to warn oncoming traffic. Despite the warning, an approaching truck failed to reduce speed and collided directly with the trailer lying across the road.

> This is a critical reminder on night driving and visibility:
> 1. Reduce speed immediately when you see flashing or hazard lights ahead
> 2. Assume the road is blocked until proven otherwise
> 3. Use triangles and keep your own hazards on if you stop to assist

> Could this collision have been avoided? Yes - with reduced speed and heightened alertness.

> Please share with all drivers. Night driving demands 100% concentration. A flashing light at night always means danger ahead.

> Question for drivers: Would you have been able to avoid this collision?

09/10/2026

Less Than 12 Hours After Deadly Taxi Crash Claims 10 Lives, Another 13 Injured on Same Cato Ridge Road

https://arrr.co.za/0iWMf

09/10/2026

🚨 𝗡𝗘𝗪 𝗗𝗥𝗜𝗩𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗟𝗜𝗖𝗘𝗡𝗖𝗘 𝗥𝗨𝗟𝗘𝗦 𝗣𝗥𝗢𝗣𝗢𝗦𝗘𝗗

South African motorists could soon get up to THREE MONTHS to continue using an expired driving licence card — but there’s a catch.

The Department of Transport is proposing that motorists with A1, A, B and EB licences could continue using an expired card for up to three months IF they have already applied for a replacement card.

Government is also proposing to extend these licence cards from 5 YEARS TO 10 YEARS.

But before you celebrate… ⚠️

𝗧𝗛𝗜𝗦 𝗜𝗦 𝗡𝗢𝗧 𝗟𝗔𝗪 𝗬𝗘𝗧.

The proposed amendments are still going through the legislative process.

And let's be clear: DON'T let your licence expire and assume you automatically have three months to drive. The current rules remain in force until the proposed changes are formally implemented.

At Streetwise Legal Services, we believe motorists need to know WHAT THE LAW ACTUALLY SAYS — not what WhatsApp says. 😉

𝗞𝗡𝗢𝗪 𝗬𝗢𝗨𝗥 𝗥𝗜𝗚𝗛𝗧𝗦.
𝗞𝗡𝗢𝗪 𝗧𝗛𝗘 𝗟𝗔𝗪.

09/10/2026

This is the legendary Twin-Stick - Spicer 5x4 Duplex / SST 20 Speed.

In the 60s-80s it was king in Peterbilt 359, Kenworth W900, etc. It's not one gearbox, it's TWO boxes in series:
- Main box: 5 speeds [short stick or right stick] - the big gaps
- Auxiliary / Brownie box: 4 speeds [long stick or left stick] - 1=Deep Under, 2=Under, 3=Direct, 4=Overdrive

5 x 4 = 20 forward combinations. With reverse on the main you also get 4 reverse speeds. The plate you show is the progressive shift sequence to avoid duplicate ratios. In reality you never use all 20, you use about 12-13 progressive ratios.

▪︎2. How to change it
It's non-synchronized, so you must double-clutch everything and match RPMs. Rule from the old drivers:

> Upshift the box you want to go UP first, downshift the box you want to go DOWN first. Never get both boxes in neutral at the same time rolling heavy.

▪︎Basic progressive upshift - loaded:
•1. Start: Main 1 + Aux 1 - clutch, engage, let out easy
•2. Aux 1 -> 2 -> 3 -> 4 [just lift, clutch, shift aux, rev slightly] - this is `1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 1-4`
•3. Now split: Main to N, Aux to N almost together, Main into 2, raise revs ∼300 rpm, then Aux into 2. Now you're in 2-2
•4. Aux 2 -> 3 -> 4 [2-3, 2-4]
•5. Split again: Main 3 + Aux 2 -> Aux 3 -> 4 [3-2, 3-3, 3-4]
•6. Split: Main 4 + Aux 2 -> 3 -> 4 -> Direct [4-2, 4-3, 4-4] - 4-4 is usually your 1:1
•7. Split: Main 5 + Aux 3 -> 4 [5-3, 5-4] - 5-4 is double overdrive, your highway gear.

Bobtail / empty you can skip: 1-2, 1-4, 2-2, 2-4, 3-4, 4-4, 5-4 is enough.

Downshift is reverse: Drop the Aux first. Clutch -> Aux N -> bump throttle up ∼400 rpm -> Aux into lower gear. If you need to drop the Main, you need to go up in RPMs first.

▪︎Tips the driver in your video is doing:
- He never floors it, he feathers to ∼1600 rpm to sync. If you slam to governor you will grind.
- On a hill, don't try to shift Aux 1->2 with Main in 1, you'll stop. Put Aux in 1 and shift the Main 1->2->3 instead, then get Aux out of Deep Under when you have momentum.

▪︎3. Speed and RPMs per gear:
RPM depends on engine - this era was mostly Detroit 8V71 / 8V92 or Cummins NTC 350. All were governed around 2100 RPM.

▪︎Target:
- Upshift at: 1800-2000 RPM
- Drop to after shift: 1250-1350 RPM
- Never lug under 1100 RPM heavy, never over-rev past governor

▪︎Speed depends totally on rear axle ratio and tire size, but with a common 4.11 rears and 11R22.5, progressive speed looks like this:
Combo Usable name Approx MPH at 1800 rpm When to use
1-1 Deep Deep 2-3 mph Off-road / steepest hill start only
1-2 1st 4-5 mph Heavy start
1-4 2nd 8-9 mph
2-2 3rd 12 mph
2-4 4th 16 mph
3-2 5th 20 mph
3-4 6th 26 mph
4-2 7th 32 mph City
4-3 8th 38 mph
4-4 9th Direct 45 mph 1:1 workhorse
5-3 10th 55 mph
5-4 11th Overdrive 65-75 mph Highway
You don't need to be precise on speed - you drive by sound. If the engine drops below ∼1200 and starts shaking, you are in too high a gear for that combination. If it's screaming at 2000+ and you're not accelerating, shift up on the Aux.

▪︎How to use it on the road:

▪︎To drive it smooth:
•1. M = Main (right stick, 5-speed), A = Aux (left stick, 4-speed)
•2. Empty/bobtail just run this: `M1+A2 > M1+A4 > M2+A4 > M3+A4 > M4+A4 > M5+A4`
•3. Heavy: run the full 12-step progressive list on the card.
•4. Split shift = two sticks moving at almost same time. Clutch -> both to N for a split second -> Main to next, rev +300rpm -> Aux to 2.

Keep that RPM rule on the bottom — if you try to force it without the rev match, it will grind and pop out. Old Spicers like a light touch.

KM/H card for Cummins NTC 400 + 3.70 rears + 11R22.5 — same gearbox, but now calculated for real road speeds.
▪︎What this means for you in KM/H:

For a Cummins 400 you live between 1300-1900 rpm. Upshift at 1900, it drops to ∼1300 in the next gear — that's the sweet spot.

- City / loaded:
M1+A2 = 5-8 km/h start
M3+A4 = 38-56 km/h
M4+A4 = 66 km/h @1300 / 97 km/h @1900 — this is your main 1:1 direct, use it for hills heavy
- Highway cruise with 3.70:
M5+A4 (double over) = 90 km/h @ 1350 rpm / 100 km/h @ 1500 rpm / 110 km/h @ 1650 rpm — perfect for that Cummins, not screaming

> With a 3.70 you are faster than the old 4.11 trucks. Your 5th + 4th will do 150+ km/h at governor, but you never need it. Keep it at 100 km/h and 1500 rpm — fuel and bearings will thank you.

▪︎Quick reminder on your video: That driver is doing it right — aux first. When he moves his left hand (aux) then right hand (main), that's a SPLIT shift marked red on the card. When only one hand moves, that's just aux 2->3->4.