11/08/2025
CONTRARIAN TAKE: Rome's trastevere neighborhood is OVERRATED. Just south of the heart of old Rome ("trastevere" means "across the Tiber"), Trastevere is now the area of Rome every guidebook and traveler lists as a "must see" to see authentic Rome. Not exactly. My experience with Trastevere goes back to my college study abroad in the 80s, when I used to go there to do my laundry. It has changed a lot since then. Trastevere was always a home to ex-pats living in Rome, including many Americans. It still is home to ex-pats. But strolling around the areas of Trastevere at night these days (especially the part closest to the Tiber) is a sea of tourists looking to see "authentic Rome". How authentic can it be when it is full of tourists and menus are written in English? If you want to go see Trastevere, go deeper in, past Santa Maria Trastevere church. Better yet, stroll the area between Piazza Navona west to the Tiber to see authentic Rome. Osteria dei Cappellari and Il Corallo are 2 good dining choices.