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Setting off on the road once again came with a slightly heavy heart, as Mrs. Viorica and her animals had felt like the p...
10/10/2026

Setting off on the road once again came with a slightly heavy heart, as Mrs. Viorica and her animals had felt like the perfect place for a permanent excape to the countryside. I had barely started when I stopped at the village store, where the owner treated me to a coffee and cherry wafers. He mentioned owning a manor with a pond and plenty of goslings right in the meadow, soon to be opened for travelers. 

I continued my way through the meadow, passing right by the manor and further among the haystacks and small houses of Gornovița, most of them abandoned, unfortunately. I paused to admire especially the one with a gate hand-carved in wood by Cornu, a gentleman a mere 90 years old. Could he have been the very gentleman I had chatted with just a few minutes earlier at the crossroads?

Higher up the hill, I felt as though I had stepped into Jurassic Park, surrounded by a forest of ferns taller than me that stretched as far as the eye could see. I did not bump into any dinosaurs, but I was guided further along the path by dozens of multicolored butterflies.

Eventually, I reached a small farm situated right next to a perfect viewpoint overlooking the village of Isverna. I stopped here to admire the open landscape and to prepare my spirit, but especially my knees, for the few-kilometer descent into the village.

When I reached the entrance to Isverna, I was greeted by the wooden church and, finally, by a general store and even a bakery.

I checked into a welcoming guesthouse, a new building with all the conditions of modern life, seemingly from another world compared to the one where I had left Mrs. Viorica. 

My new host's son, an 18-year-old kid who had just gotten his driver's license, even drove me to the pharmacy in the small town 25 km away just so I could restock on plasters. We navigated the breathtaking twists and turns toward the natural monument Podul lui Dumnezeu with my heart in my mouth, watching him split his attention between the road and his phone, from which he occasionally changed the song.

After a hearty dinner, the quiet invited me to sleep right after sunset, and I accepted the invitation.

The third day's plan changed after the first two kilometers. Although the day started off well with a hearty breakfast ...
08/10/2026

The third day's plan changed after the first two kilometers. Although the day started off well with a hearty breakfast at Mihaela and Silviu's, with whom I continued our intense conversations about politics and environmental protection, this time over mint tea picked right from their garden, I decided, once I started walking on asphalt again, that I wouldn’t be able to cover the entire stage to Isverna. Luckily, halfway through, around kilometer 12 of the day, lies Mrs. Viorica's little house in the village of Balta. I called her right away, and she warmly confirmed she could host me.

I carried on along footpaths through meadows and then over hills to Jupânești. I enjoyed meetings with four-legged friends. First the sheepdogs, then 'their flock.' It wasn't really a flock, just a few lambs and a couple of goats accompanying their owner, as pets. I stayed for a chat with her, Jenica, exchanging a few words about future plans before we each went on our way.

At the top of the hill, I found her mother's house, a sweet lady in her 80s who invited me into her yard to admire the flowers, taste the last peaches of the season, and tell me about her grandchildren: both doctors.
We said goodbye, her staying behind and me continuing to drag my blistered feet further along.

The day felt longer, even though I allowed myself frequent breaks, knowing I was only going to cover half of the originally planned distance.

I arrived at Mrs. Viorica's shortly after noon and was welcomed so warmly: by her, by Oscar and Nero (the village dogs blessed with the privilege of sleeping inside the house), by the chickens, ducks, turkeys, and the pig.

Even though the house was modest and the well was dry, meaning no running water, the host managed to get a few jugs from the neighbors—just enough for me to wash my tired feet.

I ate bacon with onion, washed down with plum brandy, and slept like a log to the background sound of crackling wood in the traditional terracotta stove.

The host at Taverna Grădețului spoiled me with a Flat White and guided me toward the rocky climb. It was about 3 kilomet...
07/10/2026

The host at Taverna Grădețului spoiled me with a Flat White and guided me toward the rocky climb. It was about 3 kilometers of uphill walking, at the end of which a gazebo awaited perfect for taking in the views of the Topolnița Valley, the Clicevăț Stream bed, and the ancient road winding right near the hill, leading all the way to the Danube. After a break to hydrate and marvel at the sights, I continued toward the village of Păunești, its yards filled with trees laden with autumn fruit, ready to drop. Here you’ll find countless wells where locals will happily serve you cold water. If you just dare to ask.

The trail then led to the huge white cross at Godeanu, where once I arrived, I couldn't resist making another stop. Not that my legs were particularly tired, but it would have been a shame not to enjoy the clear sky and the sweeping view toward the Retezat Mountains. I didn't stay long before starting the descent toward the next village, first along dirt paths, then over limestone rocks and boulders, passing warning signs about vipers, until I reached a viewpoint from which I could see the smoke of the relentless vegetation fire in Domogled.

Just when the GPS thought we were almost there, I took a gentle left onto a path heading down, thinking the day would end smoothly. Only then did I realize it was actually the trail to Gaura lui Ciocârdie, where, had I come in the summer, I could have cooled off with a kayaking session inside the cave. But since I chose to travel in autumn, I hiked back up and climbed a bit more until I reached the paved road marking the entrance to Cireșu village.

Here I was welcomed by Mihaela, who shared her life adventures and the journey that brought her to this village all the way from Prahova. Together with her and her husband, Silviu, we debated the state of the nation at the village pub before I finally headed to my bed at the hut.


avel

On my first day of hiking, I set off from the hotel toward the Iron Gates Region Museum, where, after a quick knock on t...
05/10/2026

On my first day of hiking, I set off from the hotel toward the Iron Gates Region Museum, where, after a quick knock on the guard booth, a friendly woman opened the gates and guided me through the archaeological site to the 'last Via Transilvanica milestone' (the first one in my case). I was so happy to see it, and I felt like I was going to become best friends with each of its sisters that would guide me along the trail over the coming days.

I then spent some time looking out at the Danube and the ruins of Apollodorus of Damascus' Bridge (or Emperor Trajan's). What a masterpiece of Roman architecture, especially when you think about it being built in just two years. Lost in thought, I managed to pull myself together, remembering that 26 km lay ahead, so I picked up my pace. First toward the Medieval Fortress, then to the port, on to the Water Tower, and finally toward the exit from the city, passing through the Crihala working-class neighborhood that my parents once called 'home.' And here I was, after about 7 km on asphalt, finally on my first dirt trail. From then on, I was about to get acquainted with the Mehedinți Plateau—and not just that, but cross it over the next few hours.

My steps carried me through the golden vegetation, but my eyes kept turning back to the view I was leaving behind: my dear Danube. Walking along, I ran into my first fellow hiker—a woman from France who was reaching the end of the Via after 53 days. She had started all the way from Putna and was thrilled to cover her last 15 km. As for me, another 20 were waiting. But I conquered them in the end.

The day wrapped up sharing stories with the lady at the local store in Balotești over a cold b**r (a well-deserved reward after a challenging first day), alongside other folks from the village. My first blisters had already made an appearance, but they got to rest, too, in the cozy room at the guesthouse.

Now, at the end of the season, we aren't stopping — we're hitting the road, both literally and figuratively. We’re headi...
03/10/2026

Now, at the end of the season, we aren't stopping — we're hitting the road, both literally and figuratively. We’re heading into next season on a train to Drobeta-Turnu Severin for our first study trip on Via Transilvanica, 'the road that unites', as it was named by its creators at Tășuleasa Social.

We’re setting off to explore the trails of Terra Romana, meet the generous locals who open their doors to hikers, discover the remote hamlets of the Cerna Valley, and hear their stories. But most of all, we're going to create and document our next self-guided hiking tour, designed specially for you.

Stay tuned! I’ll be taking you along virtually on this journey, and I hope to whet your appetite for an adventure on your own two feet next year.

SoloTravel SelfGuidedHike DrumulCareUneste HikingRomania

New season, new start, new team members. With 2 and 4 legs 😀🏞And new trips for you especially the ones on Via Transilva...
20/04/2026

New season, new start, new team members. With 2 and 4 legs 😀🏞
And new trips for you especially the ones on Via Transilvanica: https://romania-active.com/

14/04/2026

Happy Orthodox Easter! 🥚🐰
This is how we celebrated in our tours in the Carpathian Mountains :)

Picnics are definitely some of our favourite parts during our trips 👓🎿
14/02/2026

Picnics are definitely some of our favourite parts during our trips 👓🎿


Via Transilvanica. Summer and winter.
13/02/2026

Via Transilvanica. Summer and winter.


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Bucharest

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Tuesday 09:00 - 17:00
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Thursday 09:00 - 17:00
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