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Quick trip, to celebrate the beautiful sky
22/08/2020

Quick trip, to celebrate the beautiful sky

22/08/2020

Some history lesson today.

When I moved to Delhi, I decided to settle in deep south, mainly because it will be close to my workplace across the border in Gurgaon. Also I wanted to stay close to the airport because I was traveling in and out frequently. Eventually I chose Vasant Kunj area.

Eventually, I realized that this is one of the later "developed" and "urbanized" areas of Delhi in the south compared to what people know by "South Delhi". With lots of greenery around, with well planned housing sectors, and less hustle and bustle, this area is basically a zone on either side of busy road connecting Chattarpur and Mahipalpur. I settled in slowly and got used to the idea of dotted "villages" as islands between different sectors of a planned urban area. When I dug into the history, I found that this was not an uninhabited area at all in the time before early 80's when modern, planned urbanization started here under the Delhi Development Authority. While one ridge of the Aravalli range runs along the northern border of the area, there were numerous villages in the locality, with a lot of forest cover. It is worthwhile to mention that the same ridge cuts through the Jawaharlal Nehru University (JNU) Campus which also borders on the north. What lies east of JNU is the forest called Sanjay Van, the eastern border of which hits the historical old city of Mehrauli (of the first historical cities of Delhi). Originally named Mihira-awali in its antiquity was the old bastion of the Gurjara Pratiharas and the Tomars who ruled the area before the Turkic invasion of 12th century. Sanjay Van borders Anangpal Tomar's fort of Lal Kot (8th century) and Prithviraj Chauhan's Qila Rai Pithora (12th century). Of course, when the Turkic sultanate took over, Mehrauli started expanding into the area currently named as Vasant Kunj. Incidentally, Vasant Kunj extends to the west up to Mahipalpur, which was the ruling centre/capital of the Tomar ruler Mahipal in 11th century.

Iltutmish, one of the first prominent sultans ruling from Mehrauli, also credited to have expanded the architectural centre around the Qutb Minar complex, had encouraged his folks to spread out in the area. When his eldest son, prince Nasiru'd-Din Mahmud, died as the governor of the combined area of Oudh-Bihar-Lakhnauti (Lakhnauti was the old city of Gaur in Bengal named after Lakhsman Sena), Iltutmish ordered his favorite son's tomb to be constructed as a grand mausoleum in the area now known as Sultan Ghari. It is a cave type underground tomb with a courtyard and fortification, was the first royal tomb of the Sultanate constructed in 1321. Iltutmish's other two sons were also buried in the area.
It was constructed at the site of an old Pratihara dynasty temple (possibly a Shaivite shrine). Similar to the Qutb complex, various parts of the tomb were recycled from Hindu temples, like the facades and columns. The present village of Nangal Dewat borders the area.

This site is managed by the Archaeological Survey of India, but happens to be a much less known place compared to the Qutb complex and the adjoining Mehrauli Archeological Park. Unfortunately, I am yet to visit the place. I can see the fortifications from my terrace and Google tells me it is 12minutes walking from my apartment.

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