08/05/2026
What the Heck is “Bo-Khan-Ga-les”?
Dodging the toll roads on our way out of Miami meant that we needed to make a long detour out of town, but despite heavy traffic, it was mostly flowing all the way to the i95. The battery in Asi’s Cardo was flat, perhaps we forgot to charge it after the last time it was used, so we were communicating through hand gestures until it had enough charge for us to stop behaving like two Neanderthals discussing the best strategy to hunt a Mammoth. Not ideal, but it worked. The weather was hot and humid, but at least it wasn’t raining, and despite being tired, we were very happy to be back on the bikes. It felt weird to ride in the USA again and surrounded by brand new cars on a freshly paved 5-lanes road, but the main difference was, by far, not having to worry about the pavement giving way to mounds of gravel around every corner we took.
We have now also changed our GPSs’ settings to show the speed and distance in Miles instead of kilometers, constantly reminding ourselves that obeying the speed limit is not merely a recommendation here, and although we were riding at freeway speed most of the time, it seemed like those miles take a lot longer to be ridden. We were grateful for the rest areas scattered along the route, an opportunity to stretch our legs and drink some water, but there was a specific rest area I was looking for the most: Buc-ee’s, which, for some reason, makes me unreasonably happy. By the time we got to Buc-ee’s, it was already 9pm; we left Miami at 2pm and now it was completely dark, and thanks to the high humidity, it was also cold and sticky; we had a brisket sandwich that was sweet enough to be considered a dessert in some countries, but since we had nothing else to eat all day, it was good enough.
At around 10pm we arrived to St. Augustine. We pulled over at a gas station to fuel the bikes, and on our way to Morris’ house we passed by a Bojangles, and Asi, brain fogged and already so used to reading Spanish, asked me if I know what “Bo-khan-ga-les” means; I almost choked laughing, and with happy tears in our eyes we rode the rest of the way to Morris’ house. We were tired, our everything was hurting, and the light Cold that I caught after our last hot-cold trip to Miami was now a pounding headache with clogged sinuses, but none of it mattered – our kids were back and we were safe and happy.
We woke up the following morning feeling like we were hit by a truck; the last two weeks were intense, both physically and mentally, and it was the first time that we could finally relax and take some pressure off; my Cold was getting worse and Asi’s ankle was sore, but we had nothing planned for the day, so except for some laundry and tying some admin loose ends, we didn’t do much. It was Passover night, and since we weren’t really up for doing much cooking, we decided to order some pizza and chicken wings for dinner, not your obvious traditional choice, but still good, so I am sure that counts.
Having a rest day was great, and the following morning we woke up with new energy, motivated by the sight of a pressure washer in Morris’ garage; we took all the panniers off the bikes and gave them a decent wash, slowly peeling off layers of dust, mud and bugs that we were probably carrying with us since Guatemala; we even peeled off the duct tape I had used to cover the BMW logos when we arrived in Mexico, which astonishingly still had the “don’t worry, be happy” visible on it, which I wrote hoping it’ll bring me good karma and deter thieves. We ordered online new bike covers to replace ours that by now had more holes and duct tape than fabric, new rain jackets, new gloves for Asi and some more bits and bobs for the bikes, including our favourite moto-wash spray that would allow us to clean all the nooks and crannies that we couldn’t get to with the pressure washer. We then went to buy some groceries, shocked by how expensive everything is, and not just when compared to Central and South America, but even when compared to the prices here, in the USA, just two years ago. We barbecued 2 beautiful ribeye steaks for dinner, this time skipping the side of chips as we’re trying to lose our newly acquired ‘muffin tops’, that weren’t half as cute as they sound.
After spending a few days in Morris’ house, Morris finally came back from his trip, and it was fantastic to see him and his partner, Tammy; it has been almost 2 years since we left Morris’ house with our panniers loaded with goodies after our last visit, and we sure missed him and his dog Lily, but now we also had a bonus – Tammy’s dog Oscar, a clever little Jack Russell Terrier, who I have fallen in love with at first sight.
The next few days were spent mostly doing maintenance on the bikes; Woolly and Elsa were given fresh oil and had new oil filters installed, Woolly also had his driveshaft oil and Coolant changed and Asi changed fork oil in both bikes, while I admired his work and made sure that every part that he is taking off the bike is getting a thorough cleanup with our magic moto-wash spray. We cleaned up Elsa’s chain and all the gunk that accumulated around it and Asi found an innovative way to fix her pannier that was still carrying an old injury from the time she fell into the water in Colombia. We took Woolly, who seemed to be much happier with the fuel in the USA, to the dealership in Jacksonville to have his valve clearance checked, and once he’ll be done, Elsa will see the Ducati doctors, too, to have her valves looked at and her timing belts changed. It felt so good to finally be able to give our bikes the love and attention they so deserve after all that they’ve been through.
I had the best time cooking and baking with Morris, Asi’s foot was getting better by the day and so was my cold, and we were excited that our USA trip V2.0 is about to commence; we spoke with our mate, Paul, who also arrived back at the USA just a short while before us, and made plans to get together at some point when we get to the west.
Happy Days.