10/16/2026
Yesterday in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, we trekked into the Virunga Mountains to spend an extraordinary hour with the Kwitonda mountain gorilla family.
After hiking up through thick bamboo and mountain forest, suddenly there they were–three enormous silverbacks (we saw 3 of this family’s 4), mothers with babies, and youngsters climbing and tumbling through the vegetation, all carrying on with their day just a few feet away from us.
Mountain gorillas survive only here in the Virunga Massif and Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Their recovery is one of conservation’s genuine success stories: decades of intensive protection have helped their numbers slowly increase, and Rwanda’s carefully controlled gorilla tourism provides critical funding for conservation while also bringing tourism revenue to communities surrounding the park.