Ab Errant Travels

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Ab Errant Travels I'm Ab, and I like to wander about. Here are some of my travels.

From Çanakkale, we then went to Troy. This site had been occupied for millennia, from around 3000BC until around 500AD, ...
24/04/2025

From Çanakkale, we then went to Troy. This site had been occupied for millennia, from around 3000BC until around 500AD, in nine key layers (Homer's Troy was likely phase 6; Alexander the Great/III in phase 8). With a sheltered port near the mouth of the Hellespont, it was a key trading hub and a safe place to wait out the strong winds. (You needed a good following wind to get to the Black Sea, as the water flows very strongly towards the Aegean, and those favourable winds were seasonal).

The nearby new museum has lots of well-curated displays. Fortunately, we didn't have quite as many busloads of cruise ship people at the museum.

From Gallipoli, we descended to the ferry to cross to Çanakkale, a port/university town.
24/04/2025

From Gallipoli, we descended to the ferry to cross to Çanakkale, a port/university town.

Catch up time! Two days ago, we left Istanbul and set off down the European side of Turkey towards the Gallipoli peninsu...
24/04/2025

Catch up time! Two days ago, we left Istanbul and set off down the European side of Turkey towards the Gallipoli peninsula which encloses the western side of the Sea of Marmora and the Hellespont/Dardanelles. Our main stop was the Gallipoli battlefield where we visited Anzac Cove and a few other sites there.

I'm not a fan of glorifying war, or the pointless slaughter of thousands of young men, whether they've been sent from the far side of the world or fiercely defending their homeland, usually at the behest of aristocratic idiots. I don't know enough about the Anzac campaigns - perhaps someone can add a link to a good summary - but the short version is: Allied forces wanted to get to the Black Sea, but the Ottomans has mined the Dardanelles (one of the bottlenecks if you're going by sea). The plan then was to land on the Aegean side of the Gallipoli peninsula, and cross at the flat bit to the Dardanelles. Instead, they landed a kilometre north onto a small beach overlooked by cliffs. From there, the Turks could easily fire down on the waves of young soldiers. Those that survived this first onslaught then ended up in trenches, only a road's-width apart from Turkish trenches in places, where thousands more died.

Most significantly, this particular campaign helped ignite separate national identities for both the Turks (breaking away from the failing Ottomans) and for Australians and New Zealanders, who to that point identified more as English than antipodean.

Anzac Day, 25 April, is tomorrow, and attending a dawn service at Gallipoli on that day is for some equivalent to undertaking a trip to Mecca. Which means there needs to be an enormous amount of infrastructure to deal with the crowds. Which kinda takes away from the pilgrimage aspect. I didn't take many photos of the seating, and tents, and lights and speakers, and bus loads of people - both antipodean and Turkish youth - but they were there.

Our first dinner as a group (excepting the jet-lagged Judy) was on the sixth floor terrace of a restaurant overlooking t...
22/04/2025

Our first dinner as a group (excepting the jet-lagged Judy) was on the sixth floor terrace of a restaurant overlooking the Bosporus. We were assured it was good value, particularly for its location, but I was a bit leery of the prices. (Turkey, and Istanbul in particular, is no longer a cheap place to visit). Michaela and I shared two dishes, fried mussels (a local speciality), and a fish stew. Both were very generous portions, and we were both happily sated. Wine here is very expensive, so I had sparkling water. My share was 1125TL (including 10% service charge/tip), or a little under AU$45, which was actually very good value given the quality of the food and the location.

EDIT: receipt with restaurant name, address, and details now included

Walking tour this afternoon, lead by our Intrepid Tours guide. I've got a reasonable grasp of the history of the city (a...
21/04/2025

Walking tour this afternoon, lead by our Intrepid Tours guide. I've got a reasonable grasp of the history of the city (and the Roman period particularly, not least due to Totalus Rankium's Roman Emperors second season), but I learned stuff too. After the tour, Michaela (a Brisbanite member of our tour group) and I wandered through the Grand Bazaar and environs.

Comments include videos of the insides of the mosques

Yesterday, I did an all-day food tour with Yummy Istanbul, which I highly recommend (https://yummyistanbul.com/taste-of-...
21/04/2025

Yesterday, I did an all-day food tour with Yummy Istanbul, which I highly recommend (https://yummyistanbul.com/taste-of-two-continents-tour).

I was hoping to get a list of all we ate, and use that to caption my photos, but it's not come through so you're going to have to rely on my very dodgy aural memory.

I'm an idiot and missed my train (Santiago to Vigo). I had put it in my calendar when I arranged it, but forgot to updat...
14/04/2025

I'm an idiot and missed my train (Santiago to Vigo). I had put it in my calendar when I arranged it, but forgot to update the time one from Portugal to Spain. And I forgot to double check my ticket the day before. I have now checked my ongoing bus to Porto and updated its departure time and confirmed I will still make it despite arriving in Vigo an hour later than planned.

Fun fact: Spain is an hour later than it's meridian would suggest (ie it should be the same as Portugal and the UK) because Franco sucked up to Hi**er and set Spanish time to match Germany. This is why Spaniards are out of sync with most rhythms, including most restaurants not opening until 8pm.

Photo is a bell ringer joining the band as part of that church's Palm Sunday event.

Camino day 9: Padrón to Santiago, 28km (mostly uphill; in the rain)It was, to be honest, a slog. But it was great to rea...
13/04/2025

Camino day 9: Padrón to Santiago, 28km (mostly uphill; in the rain)

It was, to be honest, a slog. But it was great to read the milestones and know that the distance stated was my distance for the day, and their steadily reducing number meant I was getting closer. It meant the last five km was mentally easier, despite being physically knackered.

Between the (rather fancy) hotel meals and encounters on the path, I ran into many of the people I'd met in previous days. The five Canadian women (early 60s?) who walked in twos or threes, and regrouped in the evening; the German mother-daughter (65?/21?) pair who insisted on second breakfast, elevenses, early lunch, late lunch, etc; the group of Irish women (early 30s?) who were walking the last three days as part of an extended weekend; the five German lads, one of whom was walking in one runner and one open-heeled sandal, due to bruising (and missing his wife, according to his mate). Thankfully, I didn't re-encounter the several large groups, who block the path while talking loudly and utterly oblivious to anyone or anything but themselves. I also saw the two Australian women, who were slightly less frosty, and the lovely American woman who invited herself to join me for dinner in Baiona, having recognised me from our hotel that morning.

The day started damp - that fine drizzle which is annoying most of the time, but is actually perfect for walking if you overheat like me - and had eased by midday. At which point it started raining. Which is also when we started climbing, gradually but relentlessly.

Unsure how long I'd need to wait for my certificates, I went directly to the pilgrim's office, assuming I'd have to wait an hour or more, and could find a bathroom, and even go to my hotel between times. In fact my wait was under five minutes - my wait as the cashier was longer!

I was too sore, physically and mentally spent, to do much last night, hence the late update. I'll post more on the dos and don'ts, and an overall perspective in the next day or two.

Camino day 8: Caldas de Reís to Padrón, 20kmI started very strongly, and ran out of oomph for the last 5km or so. Which ...
11/04/2025

Camino day 8: Caldas de Reís to Padrón, 20km

I started very strongly, and ran out of oomph for the last 5km or so. Which does not bode very well for tomorrow's longer, albeit final, leg. But, yet again, I persisted. I wasn't fast, but I did finish.

Camino day 7: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reís ("21km", actually 24km)Today was longer, but not quite as hard as yesterday. ...
10/04/2025

Camino day 7: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reís ("21km", actually 24km)

Today was longer, but not quite as hard as yesterday. Which is to say, I'm still knackered, just that it didn't feel as much of a slog as yesterday.

I also met some Australians (two, at my hotel tonight, also walking the Camino) - my first in the two months I've been away - but they gave off very strong "yeah, nah" vibes, so I let them be. There have been many Germans, some Irish, quite a few Canadians, and some (very apologetic) Americans. Plus a large group of Spanish(?) walking together, and others. I have also encountered many women (solo, or in groups), and couples (mostly older), but relatively few men, whether alone or in groups.

I have challenged myself - both physically and mentally - and have come through. While an introvert, this has been a very lonely experience. On the other hand, I now have more faith in myself and what I can accomplish.

Camino day 6: Redondela to Pontevedra, 21km.Today was by far the hardest so far, as my much slower walking pace confirms...
09/04/2025

Camino day 6: Redondela to Pontevedra, 21km.

Today was by far the hardest so far, as my much slower walking pace confirms. Not sure whether it's the heat, the accumulating aches and weariness, or something else (answer D: all of the above), but I definitely struggled today.

There were a *lot* more people today. Given I'm now in the last 100km (min walking distance to get your certificate) I'm not surprised. Also I was walking much slower, so was overtaken by many, and the queues were longer at the enterprising souvenir and drink sellers, who also offered sought-after stamps for Credencials (the drink seller did his in wax!)

No sitting in cool salty waters today, unfortunately 😔. Best I can do is some ibuprofen, a fresh orange juice, and a glass of wine

Camino day 5: Vigo to Redondela, 18kmMost of today's walk was around 170m above sea level, with a steep descent down to ...
08/04/2025

Camino day 5: Vigo to Redondela, 18km

Most of today's walk was around 170m above sea level, with a steep descent down to Redondela. A fair amount of this was an unsealed road in low key woods, which was very pleasant.

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