17/05/2025
The hidden Mayan ruins of Xaman-Há are surrounded by a gated community of high-rise condos in Playa del Carmen, Mexico. It took some effort to find them from the beach just south of the ferry terminal, but that’s what made this place feel like a discovery all my own.
Surely someone still comes here as there are offerings of flowers and fruit sitting on an upright column.
Besides me, there was someone walking his dog, another man napping in the shade of a palm tree and a woman reading a book here.
Due to its proximity to Cozumel, Xaman-Há is believed to be the most important departure point from the mainland for pilgrimages to the island temple dedicated to Ixchel, goddess of love and childbirth.
Today, the recreation of the sacred Mayan Canoe Crossing, called Travesia Sagrada, is underway from nearby Xcaret. During this yearly event, hundreds of paddlers set out at dawn in Mayan canoes.
In Cozumel, offerings will be made to the goddess, who sends a message back to the inhabitants of Mayan lands.
The canoes then paddle to Playa del Carmen on the mainland, bringing with them the goddess’ omens of good fortune.
